By air
Antonio Rivera Rodríguez (VQS), a short flight from San Juan; the ferry sails from Ceiba
Puerto Rico
Wild horses and a glowing bay
North America · Puerto Rico
Wild horses and a glowing bay
Antonio Rivera Rodríguez (VQS), a short flight from San Juan; the ferry sails from Ceiba
December to April; the bioluminescent bay is best on moonless nights
Sources: Photo: G. Edward Johnson · CC BY 4.0
Reef shoes, a dark-coloured swimsuit for the bio bay, cash, a rental jeep booking
Playa Negra, a black-sand beach reached by a short walk down a dry streambed
December to April; the bioluminescent bay is best on moonless nights. What to pack: Reef shoes, a dark-coloured swimsuit for the bio bay, cash, a rental jeep booking.
Fly into Antonio Rivera Rodríguez (VQS), a short flight from San Juan; the ferry sails from Ceiba.
A kayak on Mosquito Bay at night, beach-hopping in the wildlife refuge, snorkelling, horse riding, the fort at Isabel Segunda. A quieter find: Playa Negra, a black-sand beach reached by a short walk down a dry streambed.
Fresh fish and lobster, mofongo, empanadillas, rum cocktails, fruit from roadside stands.
Vieques is an island off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico, about thirteen kilometres across the Vieques Passage, with two small towns and a long protected shoreline.
Settled by the Spanish in the nineteenth century around sugar plantations, Vieques had much of its land taken by the US Navy in the 1940s for training grounds, which were used until protests ended the exercises in the early 2000s. The former naval land became a national wildlife refuge, which is why its beaches are so undeveloped.
Around nine thousand viequenses live from fishing, tourism and small farms; the island's free-roaming horses belong to families who leave them to graze, and life moves slowly.
Mosquito Bay is often ranked the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world.
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