By air
Calama (CJC), ~1.5 h to San Pedro
Chile
Salt flats, geysers and the clearest night skies
South America · Chile
Salt flats, geysers and the clearest night skies
Calama (CJC), ~1.5 h to San Pedro
March to May and September to November — mild days
Sun protection, warm layers for dawn and night
Laguna Cejar, where you float as in the Dead Sea
March to May or September to November, when the days are mild.
Sun protection, plus warm layers for dawn and night — you'll want them for the El Tatio geysers at dawn and the stargazing tours.
Fly into Calama (CJC), about 1.5 h from San Pedro. Once you arrive, look for Andean fusion cooking in San Pedro de Atacama.
The Valle de la Luna at sunset, the El Tatio geysers at dawn, the Salar de Atacama and the altiplanic lagoons. For something different, float in Laguna Cejar as in the Dead Sea.
The Atacama Desert stretches for some 1,600 km through northern Chile, west of the Andes; visitors base themselves in San Pedro de Atacama, an oasis village at about 2,400 m in the Antofagasta region, near the Salar de Atacama and the volcanoes of the Bolivian border.
The Atacameño (Lickanantay) people farmed the oases and herded llamas here for thousands of years, trading across the Andes and later coming under Inca rule. Spanish conquistadors crossed the desert in the 16th century, San Pedro's adobe church dates from colonial times, and from the 19th century nitrate and then copper mining brought wealth to the region.
The Lickanantay (Atacameño) people still farm and herd in the villages around San Pedro, and their ancestral language, Kunza, survives in many place names, though Spanish is the everyday language. Local cooking uses quinoa, llama meat and desert herbs, and the village celebrates its patron, Saint Peter, each June.
The Atacama is the driest non-polar desert in the world, and its high, clear skies draw major observatories, among them the ALMA radio telescope array on the Chajnantor plateau at about 5,000 m.
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